By Debbi Snook, The Plain Dealer

PARMA, Ohio — I’ve never given three stars to a restaurant that regularly closes when the food runs out. Sounds rude, doesn’t it? Daniel Cassano, who owns Barabicu Smokehouse in Parma, does it that way because he says that’s what a real (Translated: Texan) smokehouse does. He’s very interested in being seen as the real thing.

I’m ready to let him get away with it, at least until enough customers catch on so the inventory and hours can expand.

So go to Barabicu for lunch. Or, call in an order and pick it up before they close, even if it’s a day when they close at 3. Or, drive over from the East Side, if you need to. Order, and then eat in the dining room that has all the charm of a newly painted garage.

The stuff is that good.